Viseu

A long driving day today through spectacular countryside. We left Evora, a realty pretty and interesting stop which has the highest average temperature in Portugal apparently. And we had rain. Really loved the hotel, built into the walls of the city and we were blown away by the bones chapel, one of the most bizarre things I have ever seen. Our first stop was another walled town, Castelo de Vide. It is another little gem, interesting steep ways and immaculately clean, with well hidden toilets. We ate another local sweet, delicious. The Portugeuse love their sweets and do it very very well.

 After another long haul we stopped in a town that had a mall and we had some soup. Michele bought salt. Could not find safety pins. It was not a very exciting stop.

Then onto Viseu, a fairly big place, not quite a city though. Pedro had convinced us to do the optional night experience, which was advertised as food and wine pairing. It didn't sound that great but he seemed certain we would enjoy it, so we said yes. It was fabulous.

The setting was the home of the Marquis de Albequeque for hundreds of years and it was opulent. Because the family lived here up until three years ago, the place had that lived in feel. Areas were all accessible, no roped off sections and you could pick up the pots and pans in the old kitchen. Well, I think you were allowed, I did. 

We were then fed seven courses in a beautiful dining room, each accompanied by excellent whites and reds, even the plates and cutlery were top class. Goats cheese, black pudding, pear brûlée, squid, porc medallions, stripped cod in almond and chestnut demiglace a la bonfitere, goat hocks in dried fig and yoghurt accompanied by lemon lime sorbet between courses. Champagne to wash down the shaved apple and custard gateau with macadamia ice cream and blue cheese. I was a bit peckish on the way back to the hotel, but we couldn't find a Maccas. A top night.

Here are the courses in order: