Wednesday, October 9, 2019

Sun Moon Lake

The drive to Sun Moon Lake was all about the Newtown Bluebags in the National Championship final. Having won the grand final the week before with a miraculous kick in the last minute of play, all of which we picked up on a Taipei train, I was doubtful of getting any coverage. My What’s App group, The Ducks, came to the rescue and kept me updated. We were in a food court, I had ordered the number 7 combination noodle with beef and lemon grass, when they gave me the sad news that there was one minute to go, the opposition had the ball and were going to win. Then, God bless him, Billy Magoulias did exactly the same as the week before, we took a million to one bounce and scored. The hungry Food Courters looked askance at the lunatic going off, trying to get a clip of the second miracle win. Up the mighty, mighty bluebags.
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Sun Moon Lake is in the centre of the island and is very picturesque. We took a boat ride across to a temple, really surprised by the amount of smog. It was so prevalent, it made the lake hard to see. William assures us that this is Chinese smog, though how he differentiates is hard to determine. Chinese tourists now find it difficult to get visas and William said if Chinese tourists were here, we would know about it. There would be fights over getting the best photos and their kids would be running riot, he said.
I get the feeling William’s opinion of China is broadly held here



The water is the most inviting green blue colour. It is a superb still lake, surrounded by mountains and temples, tempting the over heated into its cool depths. Nothing could be better than splitting the perfect surface and feeling the chill on your skin. What a shame you can only swim here on one day of the year! On that day, swimming in the lake day, 10 000 people come here to have a swim. It was a little hard to get the answer to this puzzle. It is a source of drinking water and if they let people swim, they might pee in it, our trusty guide told us. Another odd thing, this.





Tremendous temple this, tremendous.
It was huge inside, a combined Confucian and Daoist temple with extraordinary friezes and bronze artwork. Loved it.













Our accommodation if at Yu’an Forest Homestay. A really classy place, the staff ridiculously friendly and helpful, not in an over the top way, it is genuine hospitality. The Taiwanese seem to be very aware of manners, politeness and, above all safety. I have found them to be lovely people.





The breakfast was excellent, too. Home made bread was the highlight. 

Chicken dinner. If you are about to eat a chicken that has been free to roam, the restaurant get to put the picture of a chicken on display, like the one here.
The food has been really something here. So many new tastes and dishes, well directed by the guide. We have all had a red hot go at just about everything that has been dished up and, mostly it has been great. My system is a little confused, though. Without going into detail, I have organs that are trying to work out the MO of foods they have never seen before. In the last couple of days, after doing their very best, some of the key ones have decided enough is enough and have pulled a general strike. They are demanding a return to their old conditions and will withhold basic services until their demands are met. 

Michele holding a chicken.
The next day we went kayaking on the river. The morning was hot and once the little wrinkly man made sure all straps on the bright orange life jackets were belted and buckled, we were out on Sun Moon Lake. Although it felt like we were on school camp, it was fun. Did I mention you can’t swim in the lake?









The Chinese smog began to clear and the Taiwanese sunshine broke through.








The snake kiln pottery museum was mildly interesting, the $1000 tea pots were a little outside our budget.
William our guide, trying to cast an old Taiwanese gastro intestinal drawing spell on me.

Then we went and rolled and cooked our own tea. The enthusiastic instructor loved tea, as this shot so clearly shows. “Respect your tea and it will respect you,” he yelled at us, “roll it, not with your hands, but with your heart..” His passion made him a little hard to understand at times, but it’s nice to see someone enjoying what they do. We will see how well we did, when we get it home and whack a bit of boiling water on it.









Another terrific meal.


In our Sun Moon Lake digs, a few cold ones to reflect on a big day. Loving Taiwan. It’s a brilliant place.

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