Thursday, September 19, 2013

Milan

A final walk to the lake after breakfast and then off to the station for our trip to Milan. The station was very crowded with the whole platform full. 
We waited about 20 minutes on the platform with everyone else then, all of a sudden, people started moving across the tracks to platform two. Like sheep we followed suit. Not a great idea to wait until the train is almost due before crossing the railway tracks! 

It was here that we discovered most of the people on the platform were Aussie- we could hear the accents along the narrow platform questioning our move. Safety in numbers I guess. The train did arrive on platform 2 as expected. It was a bit scary as the platform was only about a metre wide. I was last on board but kept a keen eye on the conductor, many carriages forward, to ensure he didn't leave without me. There was no room in the carriage but an American couple had discovered the little seats that folded down from the wall. We ended up with the best seats on the train along with a lively conversation with our new friends.

Milan station is an amazing place. More like an airport with shops and  restaurants. 

Our hotel was across the road from the station which is a great thing when negotiating our ever-expanding luggage.
We spent the afternoon on our Milan City Tour. A great decision to do this given the short time we were spending in the city. Rather than get the train into the centre of the city, we decided to walk. It is a sprawling city which appeared to be  like most others. Before joining the tour we made use of the subway rest rooms- the lovely lady negotiated the appropriate price for Jim to pay!
Our first stop on the tour was to La Scala Theatre. A fascinating place.

Unfortunately no photography allowed except in the stairwell. 
Our guide was very knowledgable and entertaining as she talked to us about the development of the theatre and customs of the time - including dancing, playing games and eating while the operas were being performed. Handy to have a used chicken bone or tomato to throw on the stage if the performance didn't  please you.
It was a very controversial move by Toscannini to introduce new rules to the theatre goers- no more dancing, eating, gaming or talking during performances. It only took a matter of weeks ( and after being thrown out of the theatre or stopping the performance)  before the public complied and we now watch opera more respectfully as a result.

Our next stop was to the famous Galleria- the first ever shopping mall. 
A spectacular place that would rival Westfield any day! 


This was a clever move by our tour guide- as we left the galleria we entered the cathedral square and were immediately confronted with the magnificence of the Duomo.


Being on a tour, we only had about 10 minutes to look inside. What an amazing place- the grandeur was breath taking- more so than any other church or mosque we have visited so far.
Photos were only allowed if you paid and got a wrist band- no time to do this so we just soaked in the space ( and I snuck in two blurry shots, ready to plead ignorance if necessary). 

We would loved to have stayed here for much longer, with the orchestra rehearsing to add to the atmosphere, but our bus awaited us and we left.

Next stop was the sports castle- or so we thought. What would that be about- athletics, soccer?
Actually it was a fortress owned by the Sforzesco family. 




Another fascinating place, especially to hear about Leonardo da Vinci who was employed ( and lived ) here as a young man because Rome didn't need any more artists.
It was the member of the family shown below who asked Leonardo to paint the Last Supper on the wall of the monks' refectory. This was once accessible via an underground tunnel but the city metro put an end to that pathway.


Our final stop was the one we were all on the tour for- the Last Supper. The build up to this was amazing. Having heard about his life here, we were now about to see the masterpiece in situ.
As we were in the second group, we visited the church first. The tour guide reminded us to be quiet there because "the Dominicans are confessing all day"- I wonder what they have been up to?



 Pope Pius V - hello to our Enmore friends!

Finally the time had come and we entered the waiting room of the museum.


We entered three separate enclosures where we were gathered to ensure the temperature of the room was not disturbed as the painting is very fragile. Leonardo used an experimental way of painting here- not the usual fresco which would have survived much better, but paint on a dry wall so that he could take his time painting as a meditative process
 
Finally the last doors opened and there it was taking up the full expanse of the wall-  beautiful. The anticipation and build up to the room made it even more astonishing to see. The guide obviously loves this painting which was apparent in her description and emotion. She is very proud of the fact that she is from the same town as Leonardo.
After talking us through the painting from an art historian's perspective, she took us to the middle of the room where the impact of the perspective in the painting was apparent. This was to make the monks feel that they were part of the Last Supper as they were eating their meals. 
She then allowed us a short time to soak it in before the attendant called " prego" and we left to make room for the next group. Wonderful that only 25 people at a time are admitted to the room so as not to be  cramped and jostling for a vantage point. We really got a great viewing, albeit a short 15 minutes. This one will be hard to beat.
A pic of a pamphlet photo will have to suffice here.
Our tour ended and we headed back to the Cathedral square which is the centre of the activity. 

visit.
The ad being projected onto the scaffolding of the magnificent cathedral was an interesting touch.

We wandered around for a while but the Fashion Week crowds as well as the Celtic football team supporters who gathered in the square got the better of us and we headed in the direction of our hotel.
A short but fantastic afternoon in Milan- so glad we decided to visit.



























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