Varenna Lake Como

Our train ride from Florence north to Lake Como was better than we expected. The first half of the journey was to Milan on a Frecciarossa, the very very fast train.

A sensational ride...smooth and very very fast. 

We changed over to a regional train with no reserved seating which we thought would be a bit rough, but apart from the graffitied out window blocking any view we might have got, it was pretty comfortable and not too crowded. Pretty much on time we arrived in Varenna. A little lady was standing on the platform opposite us beckoning us across the train tracks. We were hesitant but obviously this was the way out so we wheeled our bags down and across the tracks to where she stood. "Waltersa" she asked. We had met Camilla the owner of our apartment. She drove us through the streets of Varenna parked her car and led us through the winding, cobble stone ways to the apartment. It is like her - small and neat. The view is much better than we expected too, from our bedroom window you can see the vast mountains across the lake and the water can be seen from many of our windows.

We went exploring. It doesn't take long to walk the length of Varenna, it is a compact but incredibly beautiful town.

 We ate in one of the places on the water about one minute from our front door. The soup entree was brilliant, the cheese crepe main course was very cheesy. Very cheesy indeed. I am turning into a piece of cheese and I will need some cheese intervention after this holiday.

Our second day began with breakfast in Il Molo, an exhausting two minute walk from home. Bacon and eggs and toast. Yay. We set off on the fast boat (a large hydrofoil) to Como, about one hour on the lake. It is impossible to describe how spectacular this place is. The lake is 18 miles of sheer mountains leading down to a still, deep,wide waterway lined by little towns and hamlets. There are little houses scattered half way up the steep slopes in impossible positions and there are church spires, mansions and palaces along the narrow strip at their foot. Awe inspiring scenery.

We spent the afternoon in Como, a stylish town. It has a great church and a lush park with impressive monuments, including one to famous local Alessandro Volta who invented the battery and gave his name to the electrical measurement.

The museum of his inventions was closed, but luckily we have the toaster he invented in 1857 in our kitchen.

 The weather was getting a little dodgy and the rain returned as we went to catch the fast boat back to Varenna. The trip back was smooth and we were soon back in our little village. Having seen the bigger, more touristy places along the lake I am glad we chose Varenna. It is really quaint but sleepy and incredibly lovelly.

We had a small meal tonight (no cheese) and a gelato, then back to the apartment. We are going to explore some of the other townships tomorrow......and no cheese.

Maybe a visit to Giuseppe the Fisherman at his fisherman house??